Qamis, djellaba, gandoura, thobe: what is the difference?

Qamis, thobe, kandura, djellaba, gandoura… These words are often used interchangeably. All of them describe long, modest and comfortable garments, yet each has its own history, cut and occasions. Here is how to tell them apart, and how to choose the qamis that suits you.

The qamis in a few words

In Arabic, qamis (قميص) means “shirt”. The word is thought to share its roots with the Latin camisia, which also gave the French chemise.

The qamis is a one-piece men’s garment that falls from the shoulders to the ankles, with long sleeves and buttons at the collar or across the upper chest. It is worn on its own, with nothing over it.

It holds a special place for many Muslims: according to a hadith reported by Abu Dawud and at-Tirmidhi, on the authority of Umm Salama, the garment the Prophet ﷺ loved most was the qamis. This is why many choose it for prayer, for Friday and for celebrations.

Thobe, kandura, dishdasha: the qamis of the Gulf

In the Gulf countries the qamis is everyday wear, and its name changes from one country to the next. The silhouette stays the same; the collar and the finishing make the difference.

• The Saudi thobe: a structured stand-up collar, a buttoned front and buttoned cuffs. The most formal version.
• The Emirati kandura: a clean neckline, often with a long cord, the tarboosha, hanging from the collar and often perfumed. Simple and elegant.
• The Qatari thobe: a stiff shirt collar and wide buttoned cuffs, for a crisp, tailored drape.
• The Omani dishdasha: collarless and softer, with a small perfumed tassel at the neckline, the furakha.

In France people simply say qamis, and name the style: Emirati, Saudi, Qatari or Moroccan.

Qamis or djellaba: what is the difference?

The djellaba comes from the Maghreb, and above all from Morocco. Wider than the qamis, with broad sleeves, it is recognised by its pointed hood. Traditionally cut in wool for winter, it is often worn over other clothes, by men and women alike.

The qamis has no hood. Its cut follows the body more closely and it is worn on its own. Put simply: if it has a hood, it is a djellaba.

Qamis or gandoura: what is the difference?

The gandoura also comes from the Maghreb (Algeria, Tunisia, Morocco). Wide and light, often short-sleeved or sleeveless, it has no hood and is mostly worn at home or in the summer heat.

The qamis is more structured and always long-sleeved: it is the garment you choose to go out, to pray and for special occasions.

And the Pakistani qamis?

In Pakistan and India, the kameez of the shalwar kameez takes its name from the word qamis. The silhouette is different, though: a tunic that stops at the knees, worn with loose trousers, the shalwar. In France this is sometimes called a “two-piece qamis”.

In short

• Qamis: a long tunic down to the ankles, long sleeves, no hood. The most common word in France.
• Thobe, kandura, dishdasha: the names of the qamis in the Gulf, told apart by the collar and finishing.
• Djellaba: wider, with a hood, often worn over other clothes.
• Gandoura: wide and light, often sleeveless, for home or summer.
• Kameez: a knee-length tunic worn with trousers.

How to choose your qamis

The cut: fitted or loose

A fitted cut follows the body without clinging: no shapeless look, just a modern, structured silhouette. That is the choice behind our Emirati Qamis, with its collar and cord.

A loose cut is wider at the shoulders, chest and hem. It gives complete freedom of movement, ideal for long prayers and athletic builds. That is the spirit of our Mecca Qamis, cut in a finer fabric.

The colour: for the occasion

• Friday prayer and Eid: white and cream white remain the classics, understated and bright.
• Weddings and evenings: black, midnight blue or purple bring a bolder elegance.
• Every day: grey and blue go anywhere and show marks less.

Size and length

A qamis is chosen with two measurements: the size (M, L or XL) depends on your build, the length (54 to 62) on your height. The hem should fall on the ankle or just above it.

• Length 54: 1.60 m to 1.66 m
• Length 56: 1.66 m to 1.72 m
• Length 58: 1.72 m to 1.78 m
• Length 60: 1.78 m to 1.84 m
• Length 62: 1.84 m to 1.90 m

These are guidelines. On every product page, the “Find my size” button recommends a size and length from your height. Between two sizes, contact us and we will gladly advise you.

The fabric

Look for a fluid, opaque fabric that creases little: it should drape elegantly, stay modest in the light and last the whole day. To keep it beautiful, wash it at 30 °C maximum on a delicate cycle, let it dry hanging in the open air and iron it on a low setting, inside out.

Frequently asked questions

Is the qamis a religious garment?

The qamis is not a religious obligation: it is a traditional, modest and comfortable garment. Many wear it out of attachment to the Sunnah, as it was the Prophet’s ﷺ favourite garment, and keep it for prayer, Fridays and celebrations. Others simply choose it for its elegance.

Is the qamis banned in France?

No. Everyone is free to wear a qamis in the street, in public places or at the mosque. Since the start of the 2023 school year it is no longer allowed for pupils in state schools, under the 2004 law on conspicuous religious symbols. Civil servants remain bound by neutrality while on duty.

Can you wear a qamis every day?

Of course. In the Gulf it is everyday wear. A loose cut in an understated colour, grey or blue, is easy to wear daily; a fitted cut in white or black suits dressier moments.

How do I know my qamis fits?

The shoulder seams should sit on your shoulders, the sleeves stop at the wrist and the hem brush the ankle. If the qamis pulls across the chest when you raise your arms, take the next size up or a loose cut.

Our qamis are made in Dubai, in fitted or loose cuts, sizes M to XL and lengths 54 to 62. Discover the collection and find the one that suits you.